Saturday, August 23, 2008

A Look Around Progreso

You are here......

I decided it might be a good idea for the folks back home to have a look at our little town and also to introduce newcomers and newcomers-to-be to some of the more important places they will eventually need to know about.
This is by no means all-inclusive, but I tried to hit the highlights and counted on Indra's assistance to remind me of things I was forgetting.

We'll start downtown.

This is the town square on Calle 80, one of the main north/south drags.  It was recently refurbished along with a general downtown sprucing up.  They added new park benches, trash cans and lighting.  This was a big deal for a community that has very little financial resources.
Several building just off the square include:

The municipal building or city hall.  If you become a property owner, this is where you will pay your property taxes.

Banorte, probably the best and most friendly bank we've found.  Dante Corona is one of the bankers there and he speaks English and is extremely friendly and helpful.  Corner of Calles 80 and 31.

This is the post office and it's easy to miss.  It's on Calle 31 just west of the park.

Here we have one of the clinics in case you get an ailment.  Located across the street south from the municipal building, it's called Centro Medico Americano, which has nothing to do with any North American affiliations.  They are open for emergencies 24 hours and the emergency entrance is on Calle 82 on the east side of the building.  During normal hours, just go inside and register tell them you need to see a doctor.  There is no clipboard with endless insurance forms or waivers of liability to read and sign and they do have doctors who speak English.  Our one trip there last year cost us 250 pesos and a follow-up visit a week later was no charge.  Enough said, no?

If you need a cab, they are located on the north side of the park.

This is S.M.A.P.A.P. or as we call it the water company and is where you go to transfer service into your name and you can pay your bill here as well.  The water bill is standard for residences and runs 50 pesos a month.  We think (but are not sure) the locals have a betting pool to guess when this water tower will collapse.  Located on Calle 80 heading south out of town.
Place your bets.... 
This is the Telmex office where you will be going if you want a land line phone in your house.  They also offer highspeed LAN internet through  Prodigy and it is very good and reliable.  I think this is a problem for the outlying beach areas, correct me if I'm wrong.  Telmex is located at the corner of Calle 29 and Calle 74.
And while were on the subject of utilities you will eventually also visit CFE, or the power company.  It's located on Calle 31 going east from downtown.  Limited English is spoken there but they are cordial and so far visits there have proved successful.
Now, let's talk grocery shopping.  When we first started visiting Progreso there was only one supermarket.  The Super San Francisco  De Asis.  It's located downtown on Calle 80 near the town square.  It was the only game in town other than the little tiendas that cater to the quick purchase.  So when we moved here, that is where we shopped.  Then we found out about.....

The Bodega Aurrera.  The day we watched as 6 checkers at the San Francisco stood around chatting while we waited in a long line at the only register open to spend our hard earned pesos was the day we switched to the "bodega" as it's known here.  What a joy!  Bigger selection!  Lower prices!  Why, it was just like shopping at...a....WALMART!  Now.  I don't know where you stand on the Walmart question, but we see them as one of the largest corporate greed pigs on the planet and detest everything they stand for.  If you disagree, fine, start your own blog.  But the bodega is indeed a Walmart company so we were torn between our principles and our need to be fed.  That is a powerful need.  We compromised by shopping at Costco and Chedraui and Mega when in Merida but I'm afraid we're stuck on this one.
Back to town:

This is Pemex and if you drive this is where you buy your gas.  Period.  There is no self serve and the attendants are supposed to get tipped if you feel you should.  My rule is if they just pump the gas and take the money, "gracias, hasta luego."  If they add a window wash, 5 pesos is theirs.  There are two Pemex stations, this one on Calle 78 as you enter town from the south and another on Calle 80 as you head south out of town.

This is the local fire and rescue station.  I read in the paper that lately they have been battling a blaze at the Chixilub dump.  They also do water rescues.

I've suggested to people who are looking for used furniture to try Ruben's place on Calle 31 east of downtown (north side of the street).  His inventory changes frequently, he speaks some English and is usually willing to bargain.  Here is picture so you know what to look for.
This is our mall with plenty of free off-street parking.  Really, there is not much in it of note other than an ADO  bus office where you can buy tickets to ride their luxury (not fooling here) buses to Cancun and save a bundle on gas and tolls, and a movie theater.  We went there last year to see Pirates of the Caribbean 3 and although it was in Espanol with no subtitles for us gringos, it only cost 25 pesos and the AC was cranked up so it was a nice break from the heat.
If you have bicycles that need to be tuned up, tightened up, oiled or serviced, this place on Calle 27 between 78 and 80 will fill the bill for very little money and they do quick and good work.
Now some places of note on Calle 29 bewteen Calles 78 and 80:
This is the El Paso which has food that tends to lean more to the exotic-imported variety.  They are also expensive, but I cave in whenever I want some REAL butter as opposed to what is generally available out there.  It comes in a can from New Zealand but trust me, it is the real deal.
Farmacias Similares are in a few locations and as the name implies they deal in generic drugs.  They may not always have what the doctor prescribed but they are worth checking out.  They even advertise they will give you a consultation for 25 pesos.  So far I have resisted that urge.
You're going to want to visit this place if you haven't already.  It's commonly called "The Plastic Store" by us gringos (Indra calls it "Plastics R Us") but it is much more than Tupperware-style stuff.  You know those big oval plates they use at diners to deliver a chicken fried steak the size of Nebraska?  They have 'em.  Heck, they even have egg slicers now!  We bought our Christmas tree lights there last year.  Check it out.
Calle 80 looking north.
Calle 80 looking south towards the town square.
We're still trying to figure out what they do here.
And lastly, my favorite hamburger place in the Yucatan:
Benny's Burger located on Calle 31 heading east out of town.  They don't open until 8 PM but I think it's worth the wait.  All burgers come with fries, too.
Indra and I hope this has been informative and entertaining.  It you're reading this from Yolisto, please add any information that will help our new and soon to be new neighbors get adjusted to this wonderful place.
More later,


Ray said...


Nancy said...

Thanks for the tour, very cool.


Larry said...

Thanks Nancy. And thanks for the mention on your blog.

Anonymous said...

Thanks so much for the tour of Progreso - those burgers really ARE the best! ...but I got to see my "old" grocery store, and my bank, and the cramped world of plastic (lol) - so many memories. Thanks again.

Anonymous said...

Hi Larry,

I just discovered this site and your tour was very useful as I'll explain in a second. Also the dogs are adorable!
I'm writing from Mobile, AL. I will be back in Progresso hosting a group of runners (well, more accurately, it's a drinking club with a running problem) from the cruise ship Fantasy on November 3rd. What we do is play a game of hares and hounds with a party at the end. That's where your pictures come in handy. We have GOT to run them by the water tower and burger joint. :-)
Anyway, I hope you can help me. On my last visit I found Restaurante Kiko's on the beach between the pier and the marina. This will be a good spot to end our run and have our beach party (away from Malecon and the tourists). I spoke with the owner and they agreed to let me pre-purchase beer for the group. Problem is, I don't have a phone number or a way to contact Restaurante Kiko's. If you, or someone you know, can find a phone number or have the time to stop by and relay a message to the owners, it would really help me out. The best way to reach me is by Email: I apologize for long post and I appreciate your assistance if you are able.

Mary said...

Wow, Daddy. Looks like you're getting all kinds of settled. What a neat little town. :)

Vamanos said...

Cool tour - we'll definitely have to check out Benny's!

On Mexican Time said...

I must say Progresso is a nice little retreat from the city!!! Great pics!!!

Anonymous said...

Very helpful information,and very considerate of you to provide the tour. All the best, Mike Clancy

Larry said...

You're welcome Mike, and welcome to the blog.

Anonymous said...

hello, first of all is good to see that foreign people like this quiet town in mexico :), and second, to tell you all about my travel agency with all the travel services you need(car rental, hotels, flights, tours), and we speak english, canadian owner, the name is "viajes anahuac" c 70 between 23 and 25 no. 264 A Col centro Progreso Yuc. we hope you can visit us :)

Yolisto-Khaki said...

Every once in a while, I send this page to someone who asks about Progreso and I am struck by old memories. As I was walking to my car one day, trucks began dumping sand in the middle of the street. A crowd gathered and we asked what they were doing. The answer "Building a mall" came to gales of laughter from all of the onlookers. ...and, now there it is! It always amazes me - and would you too if you had seen the work-lights strung on bare wires, hanging way too close to the ground while they worked nights to avoid the heat. Scary AND Amazing!