It's The Cops!

"Larry, the police are outside and their guns are drawn."  Thus, Indra ended what was starting to be a pleasant afternoon siesta yesterday.  After performing a mental checklist of my past transgressions, I ruled out the possibility of said guns being aimed at me, and we went out on the upper deck to check it out.
What we found was a common site here, although not on our street:  the drug and guns checkpoint.

These stops can be quite unnerving at first until you get used to them, even when you know you don't have any guns or drugs even though you might want some.

As you can see, even the people on the lowly mopeds are not immune from searches.  I used to be searched when on the bus from Progreso to Merida going or coming home from work.  In fact, I was usually the only person on the bus being searched as I was the only Norte Americano.  I just smiled and went along with it because...

...well, you get the idea.  After 2 1/2 years here, they don't even bother to stop our car anymore as it is well known as the only Subaru in Progreso.

So, we watched the action for about five minutes with Indra cautioning that if the lead started flying, we were to duck for cover.  When we checked about five minutes after that, they had vanished.  We don't know if they set up this roadblock for anyone in particular or what the deal was.  Just part of life south of the border.

More later,

Larry

The Bank Token

This is one of those things that sort of grabs you as another, "this is so different" moment.  When you open a bank account in Mexico, at least at Banorte, and you want internet access to your account, one of the things you are given is a "token".  Take a look:

Cute, huh?  What you are seeing is a personal electronic device that is getting a signal from a satellite.  Every 60 seconds that 6-digit code automatically and randomly changes.  If you look carefully on the left hand side of the display you can see a series of lines that act as a countdown to the numbers changing again.  Each token has a serial number and when you go on line to set-up your internet banking, the system wants that serial number, your user name and your password.  Once activated, this is what you need to log on with the most current "token" number being displayed, so it's different every time.  They say that this will operate for 5 years before the battery runs out and there is no extra charge for it.  Unless you lose it.

I tell ya, these third world countries...!

More later,

Larry

Mice and Mousetraps

We've had a mouse in the house.  This is our second one (that we know of) and the  first time we had to go hunting for mousetraps.  Here, they do not have the spring-loaded, killer version of my youth instead opting for a more humane (think PETA), small  plastic pad coated in a sticky substance that I suppose the  little rodents find attractive.  And for our first mouse visitor it worked.
This new guy is apparently smarter than that and we see him occasionally darting about out of the corners of our eyes.  The dogs have tried to sniff him out, but to no avail.  We can't use a cat because the dogs don't want to share the space in the house
So it was back to the sticky traps.  Unfortunately, they trap indiscriminately.

 

Sure hope this wasn't Lenny... 

More later,

Larry

El Pulpo

Progreso for all it's efforts to be a tourist destination for cruise ships, is a fishing town.  And the main harvest here is pulpo or octopus.  When we first arrived we were told the harvest was robust and the pulpo was a major export to Spain and Japan.  When we would walk our beach we passed scores of pulpo boats that had had arrived from fishing and lined the beach.  Last year, they disappeared.  Over fishing and poor management pretty much wiped out last year's harvest and this year, while supposedly improved, it still expected to be light.  Here are some shots of the boats that have come back this year.

 

Only about a half dozen could be found.  I asked one of the fishermen if they were catching much and he replied "very little".

These small skiffs are rigged with long bamboo poles fore and aft.  From these hang fishing lines and the fishermen use crab as bait to lure the octopus onto the line.

  

  

Word on the street has it that there are many poachers fishing the pulpo illegally this season and they are being hunted by the authorities.  We hope they get nailed because this town is poor enough without these hard-working souls being robbed of their livelihood.

More later,

Larry

Let's Talk About Hammocks

If you are thinking about moving here, or are moving here, you are going to want a hammock.  And there will be plenty of places willing to take your money.  The places that are most obvious and accessible are in the tourist areas such at the main plaza in Merida or the malecon in Progreso.  We got our first hammock on the drive down here from the States at a toll booth waiting in line.  At $200 pesos (less than $20.00) it seemed like a great bargain and it did the job for a while.  Then, we became more educated on the ins-and-outs of hammocks made in the Yucatan.
These are sold at more out of the way stores specializing on the locally made product.  My hammock came from Hamacas WMS (With Mexican Style), a socially responsible, local industry promoting Yucatan goods.  Visit their website here.  And forget the $200 peso price tag.  Yucatan hammocks go from $650 pesos on up.

My hammock is strung between the back porch and a very large and strong tree.  Most people have hammock hangers in the house but we haven't done that yet.  Yucatan hammocks come in cotton or nylon, but the cotton are the most comfortable.  This one is cotton with nylon end threads.  They are hand woven locally.

It's all very delicate work, but don't let that fool you.  Indra and I have gotten into this hammock together and it held us with no problems.  We've seen hammocks that will hold a family of four!
This is how they attach to the tree.  The rope (provided) is fitted with a steel "S" hook.  Simple.

 

Now, let's look at a store.  We found this place quite by accident while we were lost in Merida looking for Hamacas WMS.  No matter, we went on in because we were getting ready to head north to the States and Indra wanted to get one for her son for his birthday.

Note that they advertise sales, repairs and cleaning.  Full service.
There is no end of sizes and colors......

 

And you can get hammock chairs.....

The saleswoman was very helpful, unwrapping and showing the sizes and colors.

 

 

So, if you're approached by someone selling hammocks on the street, think twice.  Spend a little more money and get the real deal.  They are comfortable and, with the proper care, will last a very long time.

Now, for a very detailed look at the Yucatan hammock, I'm going to steer you to a site called Hammocks of Yucatan.   This guy makes my effort look puny, but I figure why plagiarize or reinvent the wheel.

Happy relaxing.

More later,

Larry

Retirement

It doesn't seem real. Retirement seemed so abstract through the years...something "old people" did. And yet...
Those of you who read this regularly may have noticed I don't use this blog to air my deep personal thoughts or musings. No one would care to read them, nor should they. Instead, falling back on my years as a news reporter, I try to convey the experience of day-to-day living here in the Yucatan, throwing in some humor to spice it up a little bit.
That said, I do want to share some things on a personal note today. The other day one of my co-workers remarked on my retirement and told me I was "lucky". "Not so fast", I thought and informed him that putting in 44 years of labor did not constitute "luck".
But further reflection caused me to concur that there has been some luck involved in me being here. First of all, I've lived long enough. I have friends who didn't, due to war, accident or illness, so even though the odds are stacked against all of us, here I am.
Secondly, I would not have made it to this wonderful life-style had I not met my partner Indra. She and I shared this dream together and without her, it would have remained just a dream for me.

Now. I have been asked many times in the past few weeks just what it is I plan to do with myself. We've all seen the stories about those poor souls who retire only to find their lives meaningless without their workaday routine. That is not me. What do I plan to do? Well, you're looking at one of the big ones. I will be spending more time submitting articles to this blog and for that, I need your help.
Do me a favor: down at the bottom of this, click on "Comments". Then, please, let me know what kind of stories you'd like to see. Day-to-day living? Navigating the beauracracy? Mayan ruins? Let me know. And further, let me know where you are. I'm always curious who reads this thing and were you are living. Are you planning a vacation here? Are you planning a permanent move here?
And finally (and this goes under the heading of Long Term Plans), let me know if you think a book detaling retiring in the Yucatan specifically, would be useful.
That's your assignment, friends.

More later,
Larry

Merida Then...and Now

Sometimes good fortune falls in your lap and you just have to share it.  This good fortune came from a co-worker of mine, Armando, who was sent a series of old photographs of Merida by his sister.  And he shared them with me.  Another co-worker, Tony Pacheco, suggested that I give him my camera and he would take pictures showing what these areas of Merida look like today for contrast.  And that's how I'm going to share them with you.  The time of the old photos is in question.  Some came from the early 20's I'm sure.  Others, by historical dates, are earlier.  But rather than try to pin that aspect down, I think it's just fun to look at the city and what is gone...and still here.  If you double-click on these to enlarge them, you'll see more detail.

This is a favorite of mine because it utilizes two then-emerging technologies:  Powered flight and aerial photography.  An amazing picture when you consider all that.

Of course the most predominate feature is the cathedral and Plaza Grande.

 

 This is a shot of Calle 65 and 56 which at the time was known as "la paseo de las bonitas" or the beautiful ladies walk.

 And how it looks today...

 If you've been in el Centro, it's a good bet you've ventured into the Mercado Lucas de Galvez.  If you haven't, you should because it's an all out assault on most human senses: sound, sight, smell.  As it looked in the 20's...

 This entrance is long gone, but if you look in the background, you'll see los Portales.  They are still there...

 Here is a look at the army which was stationed at what is now the San Benito market.  If you look in the distance you can see what is now the mercado pictured above.  The lower part of the tall, black water tower is still there.  Since this is a shot of Benito Juarez with the troops it has to date pre-twentieth century.

 See that building in the background center?  The first floor is still standing and in use...

 On the west side of the main plaza, across from the cathedral, is the municipal building known as El Olimpo.  This is how it looked in the 20's..

 And it's still there today, or so I thought.  It turns out this building was torn down to make a parking lot.  And the version we see today is a replica.  Here it is..

 The main cathedral is arguably the most historic building in el Centro.  This is a look at the interior and alter at the turn of the last century.  Very ornate, lots of gold.

 Today, much more subdued....

 There are probably many reasons for the transformation, not the least of which occurred during the Mexican revolution in 1915 when a Communist general by the name of Salvador Alverez set fire to the cathedral.  And all the gold went missing.  Here is a picture of the aftermath...

The church remained closed for 15 years as repairs were being made.

Here is a look at the north side covered in vines back then...

 And today...

 Directly south of the church is an alley that is the home of artisans selling crafts to the tourists.  And to the south of that, the Macay Museum.  But it wasn't always so.  A look at pasaje a la revolucion and the roof, now gone, cristales y hierro (crystal and iron):

And today...

The army use to be headquartered next to this alley...This is probably the best contrasting shot of this whole exercise..

Now the Macay museum...

The Hotel Madrid...Calle 63 y 64..

Today....

Calle 65 y 60....

 Today, the Del Sol...

The Bank of Mexico...Calle 59 y 56..

It was torn down and replaced with this unattractive, utilitarian, Banamex building..

Finally, a look at Santiago Park and the Nicolas Bravo Elementary School..

These days, people gather in the park on Tuesday nights to dance under the stars to a big band orchestra.  And the school is still there.  And it's still the Nicolas Bravo Elementary School, proving that some things in this world remain the same even as the inevitable changes go on all around them.

Thanks to my friends Tony and Armando for their help with this.

More later,

Larry